Enter Sandman

Spent this afternoon sanding the body - had no idea how well it'd go, but in the end I had a pretty successful day. The Bosch sander is really good, and with careful use of the vacuum cleaner there wasn't too much dust flying around. The results also came out as well as I could've expected; it'll need to be sanded down by hand after I'm done but the exposed wood so far is fairly smooth, not too much in the way of unintended contours left by the sanding.

I've managed to do the whole of the back (started there in case I made a mess of it!) and about half of the front. Here are some during/after pics, starting with before - with appropriate kit:

During 1 - the back part done, and a pause for lunch:

During 2 - the back completely done, including the rib-cut:

After 1 - the front half-done:

After 2 - close-up of the rib cut (another clear view of the plywood) and of some of the grain in the back.

Need to get a new dust filter for the sander, and then I should be able to get the rest of the front and all the edges done in one more session. Not sure I'll be able to do the insides of the horns with the Bosch, but if I have to do a little by hand then so be it. But I'm very happy with how it's gone so far!

The Shape of Things to Come

Since I don't have much to post about while I'm waiting to start sanding down the body, I've decided to post some info about what I'm thinking of doing in order to cut down the weight of the body. Each idea has its pros and cons (the cons often related to the potential problems of woodworking with plywood!), and I may end up with some compromise between more than one of them. So, in no particular order...

1) Simply make the body thinner. Shave a thin layer of wood from the back of the body, possibly even a whole "ply" of the plywood which would make it easier to achieve a flat, consistent-thickness result. Like most of these options though, I'm not sure how the plywood will react to being planed/carved - I don't want it splintering everywhere, although that may be unavoidable regardless of what I do! Also I wouldn't be able to take much off without risking a reduction in the structural integrity of the bass as a whole once I get a neck on it and it's under tension from the strings. Another consideration is the hole for the jack and the strap button holes, as these would all no longer be exactly centered within the thickness of the body - especially a consideration for the jack. Lastly, the cover for the electrics cavity is neatly recessed into the body, so I'd have to re-do that recessing once I'm done, while still retaining the depth of the cavity that's needed to actually house everything. Tricky.

2) Trim down the shape of the body. Remove a little wood most of the way round, while still keeping the basic body shape - a good example of this is the Warmoth "Dinky P" body shape, for which they have an excellent little diagram showing the difference between a standard Precision-style body and their "dinky" version. Possibly quite tricky from a woodworking point of view, and I'd have to be quite careful not to end up with something bizarre-looking! Strap buttons are again a consideration, especially the one on the top "horn" of the body. Also the body has slightly carved/curved edges all the way round which I'd have to re-create once I'd cut the shape down, as the bridge end of the body would probably remain pretty much as is, so I'd have to keep that carved edge consistent all round.

3) Deeper arm-cut. The rib-cut on it is already pretty deep, but the arm cut isn't at all, so although it won't remove a lot of wood this is a pretty obvious way to gain a bit.

4) Cavities. Basically create one or more cavities in the body. A simple way to remove sheer bulk of wood, but one I'm reluctant to go for since it'd be risky for the structural integrity of the body, for the resonance of it (yes, I know it's only plywood!) and also from the point of view of the balance of it. I'm also sure that adding a laminate to cover the cavities would be beyond my woodworking capabilities, and I'm not too sure how exposed cavities would look even on the back! Some level of contouring of the back of the body (rather than blocky cavities) may be a possibility though, although it would probably look rather odd.

5) "Carved-top" look. Enhance the carved edges of the body from the small curve that's already there into something deeper and more akin to the PRS-style "carved-top" type of guitar. Probably beyond my woodworking skills, as it'd be difficult to achieve a result that's consistent and looks good all the way round a very curved shape. Also not much could be done behind the bridge as there's not a lot of wood to spare back there.

6) Drastic change in body shape. For example removing and rounding off the lower "horn", like with a Fender Jaguar. A risky strategy due the possibility of ending up with something that looks, well, ridiculous :-)

There are probably other options too - any suggestions and comments would be gratefully received, so please feel free to add them using the comments functionality below this post!

Workbench Delays

So no sanding this weekend after all...bought a workbench from B&Q on Friday evening in order to have something stable to use to support the body while sanding, tried to build it on Saturday only to find that one of the parts was faulty and I couldn't put it together.

I'm going back to B&Q to take it back, get a refund and a new one (going to get a better one too as the one I got seemed a bit flimsy) tonight, so hopefully should get onto the sanding next weekend - bank holiday weekend plus a day off work on Tuesday so there ought to be plenty of time for it!

Might take a look at woodworking tools while I'm getting the new workbench too, since that'll be the next step - still not sure exactly what I'm going to do with it to try to take some weight off, but I have a few ideas. Perhaps that can be a topic for another post this week, since I won't be able to make any actual progress until next weekend...

Paint Removal Machine

Weighed the body tonight, it's ~2.9kg with everything now stripped out of it. That'll be an interesting checkpoint for me to refer back to once I'm trying to trim some weight off it. I already have some ideas for that, but no concrete decisions yet as I have other things to do first.

Which leads me onto the other point of tonight's post - the subject of paint removal.

I ummed and ahhed about how to do this, and did some research online to help me decide between the two possibilities, either sanding or using some sort of chemical paint stripper. Both would be messy and have their own particular drawbacks, but in the end I've gone for sanding, largely because I wouldn't have known where to start with buying paint stripper. I have no idea what type of lacquer/paint was used on the Marlin, so choosing which type to get would've been pure guesswork - and I read a forum post online somewhere in which someone described the experience of trying 5 or 6 different kinds before anything made the slightest impression on his guitar, which didn't appeal to me! I figured sandpaper would work on anything :-)

Hand-sanding it would be time-consuming and doesn't really appeal though, so I've bought myself a Bosch hand-held sander which should make the job even easier. There might be one or two awkward bits that I need to do by hand but it should take care of the bulk of it, and I'm not bothering to do the insides of the pickup and electrics cavities as I don't really see the point.

I'm hoping to have some time to make a start this weekend, obviously any progress (and photos) will be on here as soon as I'm done!

Removing the Electrics

The last post brought this blog up to date with everything I'd done back in May, so I figured I'd better get on and do some more work on the Marlin so I'd have something to blog about!

Therefore, tonight's task was to remove all the electrics - here's a "before" shot:

Once I'd removed the screws holding the jack and pickups in place, there were only five wires to cut to be able to remove everything - one from the jack, and two from each pickup. The switch and pots will stay connected to each other until they go back in as there's no reason to disconnect them, it'd only give me more to do when I put everything back. I've made plenty of notes and taken plenty of pictures to (hopefully) remind me how it all connects up when the time comes to put it all back.

Here's all the bits laid out on the floor, ready to be put neatly away somewhere (no, really - I used sandwich bags):

... and the body itself, now completely bare of everything:

Next, the somewhat daunting task of removing all the lacquer and paint, but more on that another time.

Plywood. Hmmmm...

Additional info to the previous post - on closer inspection of the exposed wood in the neck pocket, it would appear that the body is made of plywood. I'll leave you all to make your own conclusions as to what that says about the quality of this bass...

Also, a pic of the wonky jack cover with its one odd screw! I think this bass was a bit cobbled together as one of the machine heads was an odd one out too.

Next thing to do, take out the electrics.

Dismantled

Right, so the Marlin has now been dismantled, everything except the electrics anyway:

One or two minor hiccups along the way - the neck was not only bolted on but had some glue as well, nothing that a little brute force didn't take care of though! A couple of the machine head screws were almost impossible to remove too, in the end one had to be simply levered out of the back of the headstock. Turns out also that the neck is not only curved, it's twisted slightly too - hopefully this photo shows that:

I've weighed a few of the bits for reference, and to help figure out whether there are any other ways to save weight. The neck doesn't seem unduly heavy at 850g (although I have nothing to compare it with) and although I plan to replace the bridge and machine heads I know I won't save a huge amount of weight there.

However, the body (with pickups and electrics still in place but no other hardware) weighs ~3.4kg out of the ~4.9kg total weight of the bass. Compare that to my Aria 5-string which weighs in at 4kg for the whole bass, and it's clear that the body is definitely where the maximum possible weight loss can happen :-)