Soldered, Part 2

A bit more progress yesterday, although not without its frustrations.

I managed to get the remaining connections between the pots and switches done, with things getting increasingly fiddly in amongst the ever-increasing maze of wires. Then using the "helping hands" to suspend the cavity cover and preamp circuit over everything I'd already done, I started connecting up the wires from the preamp. The first one to do was the connection to the mini-switch that acts as an on-off switch for the preamp, so I soldered it into place and went to check it with the multimeter - only to find that the switch doesn't work properly. I thought I had tested it before I started soldering, but whether it was broken before or I've somehow broken it, it's definitely broken now! I've ordered a replacement, which happens to be black, to fit in with the knobs and pickup switch tip I already have.

I figured that while I had the cavity cover suspended in place, I might as well finish connecting up the preamp circuit - so all those connections are now done. Once the replacement switch arrives, I'll de-solder the broken one and solder in the new one, and then I'll be able to carefully remove everything from the cardboard and mount it into the guitar, hopefully without breaking any of the connections! Once it's all in, there will just be the pickups and battery clips to connect and I'll be able to find out if it all works...

The current, somewhat precarious state of affairs:

Also, I forgot to mention last time but I've had to be a little careful with replicating the circuit diagram as regards the two push-pull pots. I discovered (before I started soldering, thankfully) that the two I have (one that came with the guitar, one that I bought) work the opposite way to one another, which meant I had to reverse the connections on the phase switch from the circuit diagram to make sure it works the expected way (i.e. pushed down = in phase, pulled up = out of phase). Hopefully I've got my adjustments to the circuit right!

Soldered, Part 1

Soldering commenced at the weekend - the first time I've done any since I was at school, so progress was a little faltering at first! I started with a few of the ground wires, checking each connection carefully with the multimeter as I went along:

These all seemed to be OK, so I carried on with some more of the connections between them, including the shielded wire (salvaged from the scraps that came with the guitar) from the input jack to the volume pot, and the tone capacitor:

The soldering is a bit messy in places, but I've checked everything as I've gone along and it all seems fine. We'll see if it all works OK once it's finished and plugged in, but I'm happy with the results so far! There are a couple more wires to be added between these components, then I'll be able to connect up the preamp circuit, and after that, get it all mounted into the cavity and connect the pickups and battery clips.

De-soldered...

I've desoldered all the remaining connections in the Westone now; there weren't many left and it seemed to make sense to disconnect everything and start again from scratch. I'll be following the circuit diagram on westone.info once I start putting everything back together.

Once the desoldering was done, I mounted the switches, pots and jack onto a piece of cardboard, in positions corresponding to their mountings in the guitar - this will make it easier to solder the rather fiddly connections than trying to do it all with everything still in the cavity. I may have to do some or all of the pickup and battery clip connections once everything's mounted back in the cavity, but the more I can do with it all accessible the better. The preamp circuit is mounted to the back of the cavity cover, which may make those connections a little awkward, but I'd rather not remove it if I can help it, and I doubt it'd make much difference anyway.

Some photos:

Mounting The Zebras

As you can see below, the pickups are now mounted, although nothing is wired up yet.

It's starting to look at little more like a finished guitar, and I'm really happy with the way the reverse zebra pickups look now I can finally see them in position. You can see the pick-wear on the front of the body pretty well on these pictures, something I suppose I'd like to sort out at some point in the future - but not yet!

The next challenge is to figure out how to wire it all up, another thing I'm new to but I have plenty of information available to me between the Seymour Duncan website, the circuit diagram on the Westone site and Melvyn Hiscock's excellent book, so I'm sure I'll be able to work it out.

One Ring To Rule Them All...

So now for the "slightly long story", as promised in my previous post!

I needed to order a pair of pickup mounting rings in order to mount the pickups into the body, and I wanted, if at all possible, to find a pair that would fit the existing mounting holes that are drilled into the body of the guitar so I wouldn't have to fill the holes and re-drill them. However, finding exactly what I wanted proved nigh-on impossible, especially since I needed flat rings not tapered ones.

To explain a little (without, I hope, going into too much boring detail - or teaching anyone to suck eggs so to speak!) a Gibson Les Paul-type guitar has a tall bridge, which means the neck needs to be mounted at a slight angle to the body, to ensure that the strings run at the correct height and angle over the neck - and therefore the strings run at that same angle over the pickups. This means that the pickup rings on a Les Paul need to be tapered in order that the pickups are held parallel to the strings, not parallel to the surface of the body. My Westone however, has no neck angle, similar to (for example) a Fender Stratocaster, so the strings run parallel to the surface of the body, and hence flat pickup rings are needed rather than tapered ones.

A diagram illustrating the need for tapered rings on a Les Paul can be seen part of the way down this page.

Flat pickup rings seem to be rather less common than tapered ones (I suppose because most guitars that need pickup rings are Les Paul-type guitars with an angled neck), and on top of that, they seem to be made with an almost infinite variety of combinations of the distances between the mounting screws! Many websites simply don't list the dimensions, so I sent numerous emails out, usually to find that the holes were one or two millimetres out from what I needed. After many hours of searching and emailing I ended up ordering a couple of tapered pairs because I simply couldn't find flat ones with the right measurements - with the intention of sanding them flat.

Then, some weeks later, the trembucker was delivered, and it comes with a pickup ring of its own since apparently due to their slightly wider size than standard pickups, they don't always fit a standard pickup ring. So (and you can probably see where I'm going with this) imagine my surprise when this pickup ring turns out to be exactly the right size I need for the Westone, and moreover, it's flat not tapered! So a quick web search turned up a guitar shop in the US (Mike's Music Shop - great service and the fastest order despatch I've ever had!) that sells them individually, I ordered one and it turned up on Christmas Eve! At last, I have all the parts I need to complete the project.

Westone Parts, Part 2

Over the last few weeks I've taken delivery, bit by bit, of all the remaining parts that I needed for the Westone. The main thing that was outstanding was the bridge pickup - I've gone for a Seymour Duncan "Duncan Custom", which will give a bit more oomph than the '59 that I've got for the neck position, but they should go well together to give a good range of tones and sounds.

I needed to get the "trembucker" version for the bridge position on this guitar - this is Seymour Duncan's term for pickups with a slightly wider spacing between the pole pieces, generally for guitars with tremolo rather than fixed bridges. The string spacing for a standard fixed bridge (e.g. the tune-o-matic on a Les Paul) is a shade under 2" from low E to high E string, but for tremolo bridges (and some fixed bridges, like the one on this Westone) it's slightly over 2". This means that the ideal spacing of the pole pieces on the bridge pickup will be slightly different dependent on the bridge type, to ensure that the strings pass directly over the poles.

So, because I've been a bit choosy with the pickups and gone for the "Reverse Zebra" colours (see here for an explanation of the difference between Zebra and Reverse Zebra), in addition to needing the trembucker version (especially of one of the less popular/common Seymour Duncan models, from what I can tell of how few UK websites listed it!), I had to wait 4-6 weeks for the pickup to be ordered through from the US!

Needing the trembucker did solve another problem though, somewhat fortuitously - but that's a slightly long story so I'll go into it in another post...

Westone Nut Done

Happy New Year, blog-readers (bloggees? blog-ites?). I've made a little progress with the Westone since my last post, mainly with the installation of the nut. It needed quite a bit of sanding in order to fit, partly since it was inevitably too high, but also because the slot between the end of the fretboard and the truss rod cover is somewhat narrower than the base of the nut was pre-sanding. This meant I needed to sand a little off the back of the nut in order that it would fit snugly into the slot, as you can see from this photo.

Once I had it sanded down a bit I put a couple of strings on in order to check the height, and sand it down little by little until I had it at the correct height. According to the excellent book "Make Your Own Electric Guitar" by Melvyn Hiscock (a mine of useful information) the correct height is when the string just clears the first fret when fretted at the third. I think I've got this right, if not I might be in trouble later!

Then I removed the strings, and glued the nut in place with a couple of small dabs of glue - taking care not to get any into the truss rod channel or on the truss rod cover itself. I'm not going to worry about doing any more of the setup yet, that can wait until after the electrics are done.

I've also cleaned up the bridge and machine heads, since they were covered in what looked like a good few years worth of grime.

Lastly for today, if I were to make a New Year's resolution this year, it'd be to find more time to work on these projects - and to update this blog! So hopefully you'll hear from me a little more regularly this year...beginning with a couple of posts in the next few days about the other progress I've made in the last couple of months.